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Weekend in Gascony

Weekend in Gascony

It may surprise you to know that Gascony - the epicentre of epicurean food produce that all of France salivates over - isn't actually a proper region, or even a department, but an old, prerevolutionary, slice of the South West that lives on, mainly because of its association with gastronomy. It doesn't really exist in legal terms, but every Frenchman knows where it is and wants to go there. You should too. It's very tasty.

The name 'Gascony' covers a large, fuzzy stretch from Bordeaux south towards Toulouse. It's thinly populated, sunny and warm, home to Armagnac and foie gras. There are many places you could head to, but Auch, the capital of the Gers Department, is one of the quietest, least commercialised, and understated. Once upon a time, it was also the ancient capital of Gascony itself.

How to get here
Auch is only 90 minutes by train from Toulouse, a city well served by Eurostar to Paris then fast TGV, details from Rail Europe, Several airlines fly to Toulouse from the UK (Heathrow, Gatwick, Bristol). Driving is a long haul from Calais - about 10 hours.

OK. WE’RE HERE.
Auch is quite small, with two weekly markets, a cathedral and history that includes D'Artagnan, the musketeer, who was born not far away. Nowadays a smattering of English expats who enjoy being distanced from the busier cities of the South West, the Dordogne or Lot valleys, have settled happily. One of the reasons to visit Auch is to spend time in a small town that's remained small, where the shops shut at 12 noon for dejeneur, and where the main square has only light traffic in rush hour. The little stores along the one main street in the upper part of town, Rue Dessoles, don't sell tourist tat, they sell things you might want.

The medieval quarter can be strolled in 45 minutes, the main square, Place de Liberation, has a brasserie where you can sit and watch the world go by without being deafened by traffic, or being ripped off. It's proper France and very likeable. The tourist board have a website which can be found here.



STAY WHERE?
The Hotel de France sits benignly on the corner of the Place de Liberation. It's 300 years old, being once a post office before becoming an inn. Over a century ago it became the "Hotel de France" and has remained in several generations of the same family, serving repeat customers year in year out.

It's been modernised by the new couple who own it - Lucie and Vincent - but only in terms of WiFi and the food. Decor remains firmly rooted in Trompe d’oeil, rooms are painted in beautiful colours with furniture from a past era. Each bedroom is different but all retain an aura of times passed. Bidets, blue shuttered windows, beds with iron frames and ornate headboards, bolsters with sheets and blankets (none of that duvet nonsense), are all reflected in rococo mirrors. Furniture is mostly freestanding antique and the wooden floors gently creek. The entrance off the square leads to what was once a formal lobby but is now much more friendly and warm, retaining just enough marble and swag to make guests feel they've 'arrived'. Doors off lead to a winter dining room draped in velvet and more trompe d'oeil, and a canopied summer terrace restaurant.

Breakfast buffet is standard fare but of a consistently high quality - fresh juices and yoghurts, pastries and coffee, cereals and home made preserves don't disappoint.

REASONS TO BE CHEERFUL, 1, 2, 3….
(1) Auch is quiet and there are two 45 minute walks which illustrate the city history and geography in medieval and 18th century terms. Both start from the city tourist office, a delightful 15th century 3 storey timbered building restored to its Middle Ages glory. The first route (“Coeur de ville”) follows the former ramparts, taking in medieval sights from the cathedral to the statue of d’Artagnan. The second (“Sur le pas de d’Etigny”) will take you past the Town Hall where you should endeavour to look inside for the Theatre de la Ville, an intimate Italian theatre built for personal entertainment but now restored and used by the citizenry of Auch.

(2) The ancient buildings of Auch are dominated by the Cathedral, Sainte Marie d’Auch an enormous (100 meter) Renaissance style masterpiece which took two hundred years to build and is renowned for its 113 oak stalls and chapel stained glass windows.

Just down the hill is Auch's other celebrated gem, the Musee des Jacobins, housed in a delightful former convent and holding an admirable collection of disparate artefacts, from Roman/Gaul era archaeological antiquities and pre-Columbian art through the works of local painters to items of more local interest, showing everyday life in Auch during the last century. A delightful building with a fascinating collection.

(3) The River Gers runs through the heart of Auch, down beneath the medieval ramparts and is a very pleasant walk for a sunny day. A 4 kilometre discovery trail has been laid out which affords a prime view of the main town.



LET’S DO LUNCH
Cheap
Head down Rue Dessoles pedestrianised precinct where there are shops selling snacks aplenty, cafes with daily specials and even pizza. At midday the shops close and the cafes get busy. A pleasantly, quiet street, not overrun. In Place de la Liberation, beware that the menu formula you may be choosing from one of the many pavement cafes is inclusive. The Weekender didn’t check and in Sarl La Querencia was charged a whopping €20 for two small pichets of table rose.

Not so cheap
An excellent, personally owned salon de the, decorated with fantastically varied art (from Ferdinand Leger to portraits of Lenin) The Comedia serves lunch then afternoon tea. Good value and frequented by local people.

Worth it (and still cheap)
Everything stops at 12 and if you want a seat at La Cocotte, get there fast. It fills up with local shop workers devouring the €12 three course menu (inc wine). La Cocotte specialises in pot-cooked dishes, beef, duck, pork and so on. Even in high summer, these pots are ferried from table to table, feeding the happy regulars. There's also brochette of duck hearts, goat's cheese salad, and excellent desserts serves by a fast and happy staff who know the clientele want in at 12 and out by 2.30, leaving those of us with a little more time on their hands to relax over a coffee. Highly recommended.

WHAT’S YOURS?
Down one side of the Place de la Liberation is a large Parisian style brasserie, la Daroles which serves all through the day, breakfast croissants to dinner, via lunch (menu €12) and endless, endless coffees.

In the evening, just after the “rush hour” it’s quiet and relaxing, a perfect place for a beer or two to watch the world of Auch go about its business. It’s known locally as “The English Corner” by the way, due to the concentration of ex pats who like the ambience here. But it never gets anywhere approaching crowded.

DINNER IS SERVED
The rich, traditional food of Gascony is well known: Duck, duck and, er, possibly a little beef. The foie gras from the duck is accompanied by wines that are ripe and ready. Auch restaurants serve it all, but the most traditional, and the best is La Table D'Oste at 7, Rue Lamartine (05.62.05.55.62) where you have to book because it's very small and Monsieur and Madame Bonnans who own the place are run off their feet. Ask for one of the 3 little tables outside when it's warm. The fare is straightforward, with 3 set menus and local wines. At €25 there is the Menu Gascon, starting with a platter of local foie gras, toasted brioche and salad which is utterly delicious. Plats are duck two ways - grilled (pink) and daube, with vegetables - then dessert of cheese or the local apple and Armagnac tart. It is one of the great finds of South West France - no Michelin stars, no frippery; just a homely restaurant with superb food and wine.

© TheTravelEditor.com

Reproduced with the kind permission of TheTravelEditor.com

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