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Unbounded Brussels
Unbounded Brussels
‘Just try and stop me!’ was my reaction when I had the opportunity to revisit this sophisticated, cosmopolitan city. Stylishly graceful, with cobbled streets and grand old structures, this is an underrated tourist city with a host of things to get stuck into.
A boulevard divides the centre of the city into Lower Town and Upper Town. The Lower Town has as its centrepiece lively Grande'Place, Brussels heart since the Middle Ages and now a World Heritage site. This medieval square, a great place to tap the city’s pulse, is surrounded by elaborate 18th century guild houses, many of which have played their own part in history. In 1847 Marx and Engels wrote the Communist Manifesto in one of them, while L’Arbre d'Or, (The Golden Tree) was home to the Brewer's guild and houses the Brewer's Museum. The Hotel de Ville, the gothic town hall, takes pride of place as landmark building in the square. In summer, the area is the scene of concerts and open-air events, including the famous Tapis de Fleurs when more than a million begonias are fashioned into a rich carpet of colour.
The Upper Town, with its abundance of eye-catching buildings and lush green spaces, is impressive enough to make a mere mortal feel humble. The Royal Quarter is home to two of the more significant structures - the Palace, (free admission to the public during summer) while the Parc de Bruxelles leads to the Belgian Parliament. Near that regal duo you’ll find the Place du Grand Sablon, a less tourist-thronged area of ritzy restaurants, expensive shops, preposterously pricey antiques and a clutch of the city's best museums and galleries. An unmissable attraction a mere stone’s throw from the palace is the Musée des Instruments de Musique, a beautifully restored art nouveau edifice inscripted in gold with the words, Old England Building. It has four floors of interactive history on more than 1500 musical instruments including somewhat bizarre contraptions by Adolphe Sax, Belgian inventor of the saxophone. It also houses a regularly used concert hall and if you feel like a snack, there’s a relaxing café on the roof with great views across the city.
Amble on down the hill and you’ll come across one of Belgian architect Horta’s masterpieces, the Palais des Beaux-Arts, the world’s first multi-purpose entertainment complex, then head on a little further until you reach the handsome white Cathédrale de St Michel et Gudule towering over the Lower Town. This Gothic masterpiece is the national church of Belgium and the venue for royal occasions. Just the place to take a few arty photographs.
I discovered how easy it is to explore Brussels on foot – being fairly small it’s easy to get round. Bear in mind though, Belgian drivers tend to be impatient so do remember to take care at pedestrian crossings! If you prefer to use the efficiently run public transport, a modest flat fee will let you hop aboard buses, trams and the metro.
After all that sightseeing, you’ll feel like a bite to eat. The local burghers eat out more than almost any other nation and the cuisine fusing north and south Belgian styles is excellent. Local specialities include ‘moules frites’ (mussels and chips) and ‘waterzoi,’ fish or meat in a creamy vegetable sauce mixed with beer, asparagus and chicory. Chips are king here and are regarded as a chic, rather than cheap, dish. Restaurants around the Grand’Place are a tourist magnet, while the Rue des Bouchers area, between Grand’Place and the covered galleries, is romantically atmospheric with candlelit tables and stunning displays of seafood.
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