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France: Aquitaine

Overview

Aquitaine (population 2.91 million) is made up of the following departments: Dordogne (24), Gironde (33), Lot-et-Garonne (47), Landes (40) and Pyrénées-Atlantiques (64). Aquitaine owes its name to the Romans, who logically named the area Aquitania, as it had many rivers running through it (to which canals were later added). It has had a somewhat chequered history and, like Normandy, was once ruled by the kings of England (or vice versa), although it has been under French rule since 1650. The region, which covers an area of 41,310km2 (16,135mi2) and has a population of 2.7 million, is largely agricultural, unspoiled and sparsely populated, and it’s noted for its temperate climate. Crops include corn and peppers (the hot variety), which are hung from the window ledges and beams of houses to dry. Aquitaine is one of the most varied regions of France; although predominantly flat (the majority of the region lies less than 250m/825ft above sea level), the land rises in the south at the foothills of the Pyrenees. It has over 270km (170mi) of spectacular beaches along the Atlantic coastline, known as the Côte d’Argent (‘Silver Coast’), 30km (20mi) of which are considered to offer the best surfing in Europe.

Aquitaine is perhaps most famous for its wines, beaches, surfing and of course, Eleanor of Aquitaine, mother of Richard the Lionheart. In the north of the region is the Bassin d’Arcachon, a natural inland sea with the largest beach in Europe (where incidentally 90 per cent of French oysters are grown), while the south of Aquitaine includes the so-called Landes de Gascogne. ‘The Landes’ is a flat, sandy plain (lande means ‘moor’), roughly triangular, bounded by the sea and dunes to the west and stretching from Bordeaux (33) in the north to Dax (40) and the Golfe de Gascogne in the south and east as far as Nérac (47) and therefore covering roughly the whole of the department of Landes, as well as a good deal of Gironde and parts of Lot-et-Garonne. It was transformed during the 19th century by the planting of pine trees, which now cover virtually the entire area, creating purportedly the largest forest in Europe (the trees are now used for making paper). Part of the forest, corresponding roughly to the basin of the river Eyre, was designated a regional park (the Parc régional des Landes de Gascogne) in 1970. The Landes is known as ‘le pays de la bonne bouffe’ (‘the land of good grub’), where traditional dishes include cruchade (a dessert), garbure (soup), millas (corn-cake) and saupiquet (fried ham). Gironde to the north is also generally flat (its highest point is just 165m/535ft) and much of the land is given over to vineyards.

Pyrénées-Atlantiques is part of the Basque Country (Pays basque), which extends from around 160km (100mi) south of Bordeaux, where the Landes give way to the foothills of the Pyrenees, across the mountains into Spain and east along the river Nive as far as Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. The Basque Country has its own language, style of architecture, sport (pelota) and traditions and is itself divided into ancient ‘regions’, such as Labourd, Soule and Basse-Navarre. Apart from the conurbation of Bayonne, Anglet and Biarritz (known locally as the ‘BAB’), where property is fairly expensive, Pyrénées-Atlantiques is sparsely populated. To the east of the Basque Country is Béarn (famous for its sauce béarnaise), another ancient ‘region’ (its capital is Orthez) surrounding the valleys of the Aspe, Barétous and Ossau in the east of Pyrénées-Atlantiques. The inland department of Lot-et-Garonne is undulating and largely rural and agricultural. It’s one of the largest fruit-growing areas in France, producing apples, apricots, melons, nectarines, peaches, plums (including the mouth-watering prunes d’agenais) and strawberries, as well as tobacco, among other crops. (There’s a famous fruit fair at Prayssas, between Agen and Villeneuve-sur-Lot.) Aquitaine as a whole is 45 per cent woodland (not surprisingly, the highest percentage in France), 30 per cent grassland, 20 per cent arable land and 25 per cent other uses, including urban areas.

With the exception of Dordogne (see below), Aquitaine hasn’t been especially popular with foreign property buyers, but with access becoming easier by air, rail and road, coupled with low increases in property prices, a pleasant climate and (of course) wonderful wines and food, the region has seen an increase in the purchase of second and retirement homes – especially by the British and other Europeans.

Dordogne

One of the most popular French departments among foreign homebuyers (particularly the British) is Dordogne. The ancient province of Périgord, Dordogne is France’s third-largest department, covering an area of 9,060km2 (3,533mi2), and has a population of just under 400,000. Like many French departments, Dordogne is named after the main river flowing through it. It’s split into four territories. In the north is ‘Green Périgord’, so called because of its green valleys irrigated by a multitude of streams. This territory contains the Périgord-Limousin Regional Natural Park and its main towns include Brantôme, Nontron and Riberac. In the centre is ‘White Périgord’, which takes its name from the limestone plateaux and contains the departmental capital, Périgueux. In the south-west corner of Dordogne is the newly identified territory of ‘Purple Périgord’, which includes the Bergerac area, famous for its wine grapes (hence ‘purple’), and French and English fortified towns, castles and châteaux built during the Hundred Years War (Dordogne boasts some 10 per cent of France’s 40,000 châteaux). In the south-east is ‘Black Périgord’, so called on account of the ancient oak trees covering large parts of the area and home to the valleys of the rivers Dordogne and Vézère. Perhaps the territory best known to foreigners, Black Périgord has been inhabited since prehistory and contains the famous caves at Lascaux and Les Eyzies (among others) and the picturesque towns of Saint-Cyprien and Sarlat-la-Canéda.

Dordogne has for a long time been a holiday and migration destination for Britons (the French call the area around Ribérac ‘little England’) and more recently Dutch and Germans. During the late 1980s, the demand was so great for ruined farms and houses that a mini-boom was created. Prices are more reasonable now and bargains can still be found, but it’s still the most expensive department in this area for the simple reason that it’s one of the most scenic departments in France and contains some of the country’s prettiest and most dramatic towns and villages, including Brantôme, Domme, La Roque-Gageac, Sarlat-la-Canéda and Trémolat. Domme and Sarlat are the jewels of Dordogne and are so popular that they’re in danger of being ruined by tourism (it’s almost impossible to find a grocer amongst the tourist shops and artist’s galleries along the main road in Domme).

Most of what makes Dordogne memorable is to be found in a 15km (10mi) stretch of the river between Bergerac and Souillac (in Lot), but every village has historical buildings, whether churches, châteaux or ordinary houses inhabited by the same family for generations. Dordogne is also a treasure trove of caves filled with prehistoric paintings up to 30,000 years old. Lascaux and Les Eyzies are the two major sites and perhaps the best known. The river itself provides other distractions for inhabitants and holidaymakers, although the latter can be a nuisance to the former in high season. Local cuisine includes truffles and pâté de foie gras (the best French foie gras is considered to come from Sarlat) and is noted for its duck and goose dishes.

© Survival Books Limited 2005

“Buying a Home in France 2006” 6th Edition, David Hampshire.

Reproduced with the permission of Survival Books Limited.

Further information on this topic can be found in “Buying a Home in France 2006” 6th edition, by David Hampshire.

For extensive, annually updated information about buying a property in France, you can purchase this book at www.survivalbooks.net

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